Corriere Canadese

Masseria, a ristorante - pizzeria like no other in Toronto

by The Honourable Joe Volpe, Publisher

TORONTO - It is a ristorante - pizzeria like no other you have seen in Toronto, or anywhere else for that matter. Masseria, at 577 King St West, combines an ambience, service and quality of food ingredients that only a food aficionado who wants to share his passion for a delectable meal would invent.

“It’s a passion!” gushes Sam Primucci, restauranteur an connoisseur of agri-products par excellence. “Eating should always be a unique experience. Sure, it is born out of necessity, but there’s an anticipation, a satisfaction and gratification associated with it - what you ingest is not only good, but good for you”.


“It should be like courting a loved one over and over every day”, chimed in his son Domenic. “When we’d go to my grandparents’ Masseria (family homestead on the boundary of the family farm) on the outskirts of town, my grandmother always prepared a meal as if she were entertaining royalty”.

“That was true especially with the simplest of meals, like a pizza prepared on a marble counter and cooked in an open hearth before our very eyes”, added his brother Michael.

“You could never argue with the fragrance and flavour of that rich, extra virgin olive oil, the aroma of the home grown herbs, the scent of the artisanal cheeses and aged prosciutto she applied as if an artist working on a canvass.
But she always allowed for personal tastes and for flights of fancy with her cuisine.” Just like here, in Masseria.


Like their black dough pizza, for example. It is really a “carbonized vegetable” dough, explains Sam. It gives the thin-sliced pizza the firmness that holds firm at the centre but it is porous in texture, easily digestible and light on the stomach.
Except for the colour, all of the other pizzas share those same qualities. Sam refuses to compromise on the ingredients that go into the “toppings”. He imports virtually everything, including the hand driven prosciutto slicer. “It ensures that the fragrance and taste of the meat is not altered in the least. Here, smell, taste… like home isn’t it?”

He’s right. The signature large round table centred by a large vase of fresh basil fills the one big eating area with a garden fragrance somehow completely a’ propos to the warmth that radiates from the open oven and the smiles of staff eager to satisfy every little whim of your taste buds.


But the experience starts as you enter. Pizza doughs and ingredients feast your eyes. It is as if they plead for your favour and selection. As you make your way to the end of the counter for drinks, olives, peppers, salads cheeses to whet your appetite – all prepared with the same competitive care, your meal is ready: Ecco! 3 minutes and you will feel like I used to at my grandmother’s Masseria.

“Who said you can never go back?”, smiles Sam. “Remember the address”.

(Thursday 8 September 2016)

Download "Masseria, a ristorante-pizzeria like no other in Toronto"

About the Author

Joseph Volpe

Joseph Volpe